tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86385235770408198622024-02-19T07:39:43.778-08:00Victoria's celloMarion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-48444592670066054412012-11-22T03:49:00.002-08:002012-11-22T03:51:13.050-08:00Voilà...No commentaries.... ;-)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrDQRb5BgcXeTWp3NuPS7my400GF2oFU2zSEa3XQJOyNbnuSyBW4z_afAdZWHxLoK3oDVUtg4anLwVZTfFkCd0x85gP22A_NqsYAoUNRZlvQg2RW_dVx4vsjhU1iJLb14G-pkMP1ztbmw/s1600/IMG_2681.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrDQRb5BgcXeTWp3NuPS7my400GF2oFU2zSEa3XQJOyNbnuSyBW4z_afAdZWHxLoK3oDVUtg4anLwVZTfFkCd0x85gP22A_NqsYAoUNRZlvQg2RW_dVx4vsjhU1iJLb14G-pkMP1ztbmw/s320/IMG_2681.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1rFoO4duX3qLeSs9b2dNyuU4M06n6dvk1SERCDJxUAF7bPg5oRofG3mnKb8Y_6PdQWQewmrV43HWVApOXIfw42KEz-vLClDostnSig8_8oabJ0keupB-CyCmOxgIR5S2XxF5lDkPcuk/s1600/IMG_2687.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1rFoO4duX3qLeSs9b2dNyuU4M06n6dvk1SERCDJxUAF7bPg5oRofG3mnKb8Y_6PdQWQewmrV43HWVApOXIfw42KEz-vLClDostnSig8_8oabJ0keupB-CyCmOxgIR5S2XxF5lDkPcuk/s320/IMG_2687.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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many more pictures of the finished instrument are available on my website : www.mondocellos.co.ukMarion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-69428124399143206312012-08-21T04:15:00.002-07:002012-08-29T05:49:26.365-07:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOccbk3sB7wjJISr5-JnXvpUI_SIb9bwXW0AG_kGTtK-rI0jcKomqoNFRfTsS2spObH7hu_QyZaPTISQxdCGl-OLrP0BHCy0-xcMCJ7RIy4ZfJnEGlSvW09eszNYPJuixBew_HyWD19Mo/s1600/IMG_2716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOccbk3sB7wjJISr5-JnXvpUI_SIb9bwXW0AG_kGTtK-rI0jcKomqoNFRfTsS2spObH7hu_QyZaPTISQxdCGl-OLrP0BHCy0-xcMCJ7RIy4ZfJnEGlSvW09eszNYPJuixBew_HyWD19Mo/s320/IMG_2716.JPG" width="320" /></a>The very last bit of the making of our instruments is what's called the set up - all the free standing and removable parts, some of which can be adjusted to change the sound of the instrument.<br />
This includes the ebony work of the nut and the saddle, the peg fitting, the sound post fitting and the bridge fitting.<br />
I have worked with my father - a retired engineer - for several months to devise a way of making beautiful professional tailpieces for cellos in the wood of my choice.<br />
Victoria's cello is set up with one of them made in olive wood - a landmark of my home, the south of France.<br />
The pegs were made by Philip Brown - a very talented wood turner who specialises in instruments pegs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBT-qgAQKGPIOU4MLOwVuqaUgMlvR-B152aVkA_aSt2SLHv9OqVH__rYMtgYImfABeNj0RbVFUUzYXd8H5-DD6kQVB_IryuGR_fYGmLBdgwExQJIFdqFrPyJHvyJYZkZo112LamQu8Ois/s1600/IMG_2725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBT-qgAQKGPIOU4MLOwVuqaUgMlvR-B152aVkA_aSt2SLHv9OqVH__rYMtgYImfABeNj0RbVFUUzYXd8H5-DD6kQVB_IryuGR_fYGmLBdgwExQJIFdqFrPyJHvyJYZkZo112LamQu8Ois/s320/IMG_2725.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
We use the best wood for sound post and bridge that means it is made from the best grown tone wood, best processed and worked on the split to insure stability over time.Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-62193357760387170512012-08-21T03:51:00.000-07:002012-08-29T05:41:56.975-07:00The Painting<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHAsR6UozP8goHowHYMDGQE_o9zXPn4alY_rMOOD7rgWaztuYTrFK5U01hWUiKFjTHg5L8_YwvwVPC6pgHqTUlyRVHmav1Onlx6Im4myhUWq7D12Yy5jNHqyYNQJOXvMZOlZ78yfQLB8U/s1600/IMG_2677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHAsR6UozP8goHowHYMDGQE_o9zXPn4alY_rMOOD7rgWaztuYTrFK5U01hWUiKFjTHg5L8_YwvwVPC6pgHqTUlyRVHmav1Onlx6Im4myhUWq7D12Yy5jNHqyYNQJOXvMZOlZ78yfQLB8U/s320/IMG_2677.jpg" width="240" /></a>As part of the commission of the cello I have agreed to create a dedication for Victoria, in whose it was made.<br />
I then told them how in awe I was of one my masters, Barack Norman - a english maker of the 18th century who used to hide his initials in intricate decorative purflings.<br />
Inspired by this I designed a pattern, also highly inspired by imperial roman art, to pay tribute to Victoria, in which I included her initials.<br />
I used oil paints which is the easiest to use on oil varnish but I also used some kind of thick acrylic for the gold and the silver.<br />
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Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-62966069344804757842012-08-21T03:32:00.001-07:002012-08-29T05:38:57.725-07:00Varnishing<br />
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We all the know that the purpose of the varnish, on wood in general and musical instruments in particular, is to protect it - namely from dirt and changing humidity, but also from stains such as that made by the sweat on hands (and neck in the case of violins and violas).<br />
Whereas traditional guitar making uses french polishing techniques (spirit based varnish), we use oil based varnishes. And because we stay as close as possible to the tradition of our masters, it will never be a question of a gun to apply varnishes.<br />
Our varnish is simply a mix of colophony, mastic and copal and linseed oil (a balanced mix giving enough elasticity to the varnish to let it work and vibrate with the wood and not crack and chip).<br />
It is beautifully transparent as well as golden in colour. We add finely ground lake pigments - always favouring the most transparents ones - to give brown, gold, honey or red shades.<br />
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For most of our instruments - including this one - we have used varnish that we have cooked ourselves.<br />
Each coat of varnish is being polished before the next is applied.<br />
There is here only one coat of coloured varnish in between two coats of clear (uncoloured varnish)<br />
Each coat is dried for two days under UV black light.<br />
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Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-85182636812571171712012-08-21T02:35:00.000-07:002012-08-27T06:53:45.976-07:00The wood treatmentIt is always a bit strange to come to that point where none of the tools we used for the making are going to be used again for this instrument and a new set of tools and skills will come in.<br />
When we were at school, the art of treating wood and varnishing and that of getting the sound out of the instrument was taught in the second year, when the wood working was the programme of the first year.<br />
The number of techniques to treat and varnish an instrument almost equal the number of makers and restorers itself. It is a very personal skill... And the Secret of Stradivari is yet to be (re) discovered.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1hTNT5tbS692-h8Ne2Oxb6z1Nd209j81HZrOKXWLBZisb78afNxCdkLGZ6dqf6sUtUrJSYrWPQJuWgSaofoqMVqUjFb2lfaDQOvGuz1zD4ocfnPCTNzYN1rH3V3HKb6Go6PUa3yezeA/s1600/IMG_2629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1hTNT5tbS692-h8Ne2Oxb6z1Nd209j81HZrOKXWLBZisb78afNxCdkLGZ6dqf6sUtUrJSYrWPQJuWgSaofoqMVqUjFb2lfaDQOvGuz1zD4ocfnPCTNzYN1rH3V3HKb6Go6PUa3yezeA/s320/IMG_2629.JPG" width="320" /></a>I accepted that UV light has a positive effect on my instruments.<br />
Italian Masters use to hang their violins in their <i>secadour, </i>a construction at the top the house roof open to fresh air and day light but offering protection to direct sun light (that would have damaged the glue and distorted the wood)<br />
Our UV cabinet with tanning tubes inside is a much less romantic but as efficient of the <i>secadour.</i><br />
Our instruments can spend as long as we can in it - the longer the better. I usually do at least 10 days.<br />
In that special case, Douglas put the cello in the UV cabinet and waited for our son Loïc to be born.<br />
He came a week late so by the time Douglas's paternity leave was ending, the cello had been 5 weeks in it. Wonderful.<br />
The UV light tans the wood and gives a lovely buiscuity colour but also dries it out gently and makes the wood produce ozone that will react with other chemicals.<br />
Then comes the Potassium Nitrite which reacts with the ozone created by the UV, darkening the wood a shade further. Next treatment is tea stain and ammonia fuming. The tea stain is only a very very strong tea with a drop of alcohol to kill mould and that applied on the wood gives more colour as the tannins contained in tea react with the ammonia. all of those treatments bring the wood to darken to a nice brown and the figure to come out without damaging the wood.<br />
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<br />Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-43581522351861601372012-04-22T00:04:00.000-07:002012-08-27T06:45:35.908-07:00Finishing the wood work<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6qz6yvenc3lk1DDdp1Zo5IVnOEaL0QqXuTgc_nHZ-fN8Uc2DjhpWhEer8anvGKKtq1LvbLbEH8iuzVP2Jxhsheo29pOi3z6KG7xVlAxKcWn7xwlyZ3xDg1EhYSoeGWZ8FYsKHyCC7QGc/s1600/IMG_2498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6qz6yvenc3lk1DDdp1Zo5IVnOEaL0QqXuTgc_nHZ-fN8Uc2DjhpWhEer8anvGKKtq1LvbLbEH8iuzVP2Jxhsheo29pOi3z6KG7xVlAxKcWn7xwlyZ3xDg1EhYSoeGWZ8FYsKHyCC7QGc/s320/IMG_2498.JPG" width="320" /></a>The edge work - rounding around the edges - has been roughly started before the plates were glued to the body so to access easily the underside without damaging the ribs.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">It is always the very last job, along with a few chamfers to be finished here and there, before looking at the instrument and thinking: "Et voilà... that's me done..."</span><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-69104047712113092132012-04-21T23:57:00.003-07:002012-08-27T06:44:48.871-07:00Shaping the neck<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizq8CK56DoNQDB3MybNtIPZmAY1GSbxdFZfnVkB13tpylH9uqzz9zfbWjIc0XimWxruaswn9eM5p6_BAhNU-a-Ox3WYAwrsWiGRDjn1ktTPbTokHrKRAr9zN97PoTK1PT1rsPG2984FPA/s1600/IMG_2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizq8CK56DoNQDB3MybNtIPZmAY1GSbxdFZfnVkB13tpylH9uqzz9zfbWjIc0XimWxruaswn9eM5p6_BAhNU-a-Ox3WYAwrsWiGRDjn1ktTPbTokHrKRAr9zN97PoTK1PT1rsPG2984FPA/s320/IMG_2529.JPG" width="320" /></a>The "box" is now closed together for good. It takes a long time on a cello to insure that the ribs are set on both plates where there are meant to be - sometimes slight distortions of the ribs change their shape and they are to be "persuaded" back into place. This is the only way to guarantee no loss of overhang - the extra wood on the plates that makes the edges. The regularity of the overhang is purely esthetic, but that is so important.<br />
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The neck is now ready to be shaped using rough rasps, files, knifes and going down to the finest grit of sand paper. The neck is polished with micromesh and the grain is raised several times with water in between the sanding.<br />
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We do have measurements for the neck thickness, but what our hands tell us holding the neck is a better guide and the shadows that are created by our bench lamp on the neck will tell us about bumps and irregularities...<br />
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<br />Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-67442604018936077292012-04-21T00:38:00.001-07:002012-08-27T06:42:47.161-07:00Other supports<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Xq2-kzKlaNYksIybh0-JvKrNL_KWllI2hR1bS8rnPsvkStlYD7-eCKfdip_L1qhL51jPmu4nXw-YjNPcOtj2_MNA0-vGbEZZKaiWwUNHkVfwLaSkDb0cL67ggvbhoTMta4XfmI7IC1g/s1600/IMG_2521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Xq2-kzKlaNYksIybh0-JvKrNL_KWllI2hR1bS8rnPsvkStlYD7-eCKfdip_L1qhL51jPmu4nXw-YjNPcOtj2_MNA0-vGbEZZKaiWwUNHkVfwLaSkDb0cL67ggvbhoTMta4XfmI7IC1g/s320/IMG_2521.JPG" width="320" /></a>We find it very important to support parts of the cello so as to lengthen its life and minimise the intervention of restorers in decades to come. This takes even more of our time but we respect our instruments to at least that point of giving them as much longevity as we can.<br />
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We support the front and back centre joints with little studs of spruce and maple that are then shaped. (This is common practice).<br />
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Once the mould has been taken off we also like to line all the inside of the ribs with japanese paper of the finest grade.<br />
This paper, once glued on becomes one with wood. It is so thin that it is almost unseen and cannot be counted as extra weight. However its fibers going across the grain in every direction provide a support as strong as if another piece of wood was here (like plywood).<br />
This will prevent warping, sinking, and cracks on the ribs.<br />
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The blocks can then be shaped in order to reduce the weight and it is about that time (before the back is glued on) that we place the label - to insure it is exactly at the right place and well secure (again for decades to come).<br />
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This cello now has two labels : one saying the names of the makers, the place it was made and the date; the other one explaining who by and why it was commissioned.<br />
All my labels are made and calligraphed by hand using a quill and japanese ink.<br />
I do not pretend to have amazing calligraphy skills but I like to hang on to that bit of fun that I learned when I was in art school.Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-70850906669881481202012-04-21T00:13:00.002-07:002012-08-27T06:40:38.374-07:00Neck Fitting<br />
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My particular technique for fitting a neck on a instrument is an adaptation of a baroque or transitional technique. I didn't come up with it, I just chose it (and converted Douglas to it).<br />
It involves having the back of the instrument off while the neck is being fitted and glued. This allows us to have a much greater control of the joint in the block since it is not hidden by the button of the back and allows us to work on the mortice from both directions.<br />
Makers use this technique for cello making but rarely for smaller instruments, whereas I do.<br />
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For this job, the front is "spot glued" in place (meaning just at the blocks) so it can be removed easily and the mould is kept inside for stability.<br />
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Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-53453331056495623052012-04-20T23:47:00.002-07:002012-08-27T06:39:00.815-07:00Fingerboard<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi6TYSn8HV1AFX8nhyphenhyphenTxP3FkQs3fwnztwmrxQ1Asuh5Z08MmEu7OVbVS9Md9TV4AdyuAU-iBrmdw0RJWyw4mtzThUv-I_Z9aGS0UKgmmEHoRiWS0izrSA5Vh2oYbvrLRaGHqQw76RV8KA/s1600/IMG_2502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi6TYSn8HV1AFX8nhyphenhyphenTxP3FkQs3fwnztwmrxQ1Asuh5Z08MmEu7OVbVS9Md9TV4AdyuAU-iBrmdw0RJWyw4mtzThUv-I_Z9aGS0UKgmmEHoRiWS0izrSA5Vh2oYbvrLRaGHqQw76RV8KA/s320/IMG_2502.JPG" width="320" /></a>On a new instrument, it is rather nice that the fingerboard can be made before the neck is fitted, instead of using that we may call a "false fingerboard".<br />
It does provide a perfect guide for fitting the neck in and it is much quicker made when made that way.<br />
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On a cello, the important space between the fingerboard and the front allows us to varnish under the fingerboard without difficulties - which is different on a smaller instrument (therefore would force us to remove the fingerboard for varnishing - which is never a good idea)<br />
Also it allows us to shape the neck with the fingerboard. That provides accuracy and guaranties us that the neck will stay straight and won't warp.Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-16497511033406239042012-04-01T12:26:00.001-07:002012-04-20T23:39:02.938-07:00Bass BarOnce the Sound Holes are finished, we take a big number of notes about thicknesses of both plates, their weight, we calculate the density of the wood used, we take note of the modal notes (notes on which the plates do vibrate and do not),... Everything is carefully logged so we can use all of it as reference when comparing two of our instruments (or more) of the same model. Victoria's cello is the forth cello of the same model.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh04Qy2UlcL7SZZKATFNIGFYQ9y4NZ2Fps0uyv6kbZ1Sh0yGp2arcZI0XHrhQOrk8U_-bb25nLTcs3AGDON3uBH5u6UO8GSsLwnOUlxkWvkTk2BmFgBg08SJ-VYW6XSRkgtWHmp_I8QnRI/s1600/IMG_2506.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh04Qy2UlcL7SZZKATFNIGFYQ9y4NZ2Fps0uyv6kbZ1Sh0yGp2arcZI0XHrhQOrk8U_-bb25nLTcs3AGDON3uBH5u6UO8GSsLwnOUlxkWvkTk2BmFgBg08SJ-VYW6XSRkgtWHmp_I8QnRI/s320/IMG_2506.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
Then we can start the making of the bass bar that has both a role of strengthening the front under the bridge bass foot and carrying the sound a bit more across the sound board (the front).<br />
The wood used for it is narrow grain spruce and it is fitted perfectly to come to a specific place inside the soundboard.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge1VghH5vaL5DwcwswLU6YTETtSVcDp7C4hG6Dsln-jeAQFOC3Ekt9iSpo_iODDX0a4fl_gvUh1LtTG8f45jeVIb1iXE7Flmr3SIrkyb6wxGTufOxr6jvGM3JR6HA8W4s_IVVuFe2Wx6Q/s1600/IMG_2505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge1VghH5vaL5DwcwswLU6YTETtSVcDp7C4hG6Dsln-jeAQFOC3Ekt9iSpo_iODDX0a4fl_gvUh1LtTG8f45jeVIb1iXE7Flmr3SIrkyb6wxGTufOxr6jvGM3JR6HA8W4s_IVVuFe2Wx6Q/s320/IMG_2505.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
It is also fitted slightly offset to the front wood grain as to not create any weakness (therefore cracks) at the seam with the front.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeaQhDt6rf71vDfeazFM1Fmb5fKAy1rQUVAhCxZK79SIadDH3xW_nTvgIjxk-WD_dt0CxX6fwCzve6Y4h0QqLbnJd-uOZq2zS8RfzYYVJELSGKeGaIOVI8zSO_nBByKcMc5fHN96b62q0/s1600/IMG_2507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeaQhDt6rf71vDfeazFM1Fmb5fKAy1rQUVAhCxZK79SIadDH3xW_nTvgIjxk-WD_dt0CxX6fwCzve6Y4h0QqLbnJd-uOZq2zS8RfzYYVJELSGKeGaIOVI8zSO_nBByKcMc5fHN96b62q0/s320/IMG_2507.JPG" width="320" /></a>Once glued, the bass bar is given a streamline shape. (This picture shows it just glued and unshaped)<br />
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I like gluing my bass bar with restaurer's clamps rather than bass bar pegs as their pressure is from the top and guaranty less distortion and flaws - so does Douglas.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuEwE68k5CC3_yb3jczPYrupXEyTV0s4Sv4sdv0TgmZyotsw6pQYhWuxcrHPFc6sQjpyVzPrhlwe0bN3tFZ_ROR9wHeduesLhbp6bUwj7iFubd0w-AZUITXer-qDRCNDbihNgH0QIxfUg/s1600/IMG_2509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuEwE68k5CC3_yb3jczPYrupXEyTV0s4Sv4sdv0TgmZyotsw6pQYhWuxcrHPFc6sQjpyVzPrhlwe0bN3tFZ_ROR9wHeduesLhbp6bUwj7iFubd0w-AZUITXer-qDRCNDbihNgH0QIxfUg/s320/IMG_2509.JPG" width="320" /></a>In the process of shaping the bass bar, we dispose of the wood on it that is unnecessary extra weight and doesn't act as support.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCrfONxSqDaBPHMH4dv4187gH3Ha6VLhZwnTsiBTgHheOE2swgoRd2yCK1NLWt4KlzhDGKZA_PqrcElJbzhED-1WWjf0kAkCfE7CzWWAOlC7ubzyaxS6I77NQ1EyNQhd-c6GlVRlsIvHA/s1600/IMG_2510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCrfONxSqDaBPHMH4dv4187gH3Ha6VLhZwnTsiBTgHheOE2swgoRd2yCK1NLWt4KlzhDGKZA_PqrcElJbzhED-1WWjf0kAkCfE7CzWWAOlC7ubzyaxS6I77NQ1EyNQhd-c6GlVRlsIvHA/s320/IMG_2510.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-33899898220059478052012-03-28T23:10:00.004-07:002012-03-28T23:20:43.496-07:00Sound Holes<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVGkkw-q-U6rtJDzWG4OWtF07BCrlmL36e4UrMCWDuIJO5_GsTfOrLkY-tQg2J5cAkp0GHUTY5xT5ATA10TNDSU6bsbaidiqRCVnXnn6q9fEffC8b4EDelI4fFE0requiWDNHWrt_EjHs/s1600/IMG_2468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVGkkw-q-U6rtJDzWG4OWtF07BCrlmL36e4UrMCWDuIJO5_GsTfOrLkY-tQg2J5cAkp0GHUTY5xT5ATA10TNDSU6bsbaidiqRCVnXnn6q9fEffC8b4EDelI4fFE0requiWDNHWrt_EjHs/s320/IMG_2468.JPG" width="320" /></a>The sound holes have a lot of different roles in the balance of the sound board (the front).<br />
The sound produced in the box (space between the front, the back and the ribs) is being projected via the sound holes (that are commonly called F-Holes because of the F shape of the bass one).<br />
But wood being removed at that particular point is also playing a major hole in the flexibility of the front.<br />
Their shape, the way they are cut, where they are placed, all plays a critical role in the sound.<br />
They also have an esthetical purpose and to emphasize this, there is a slight fluting around the<br />
bottom wing of each sound holes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHdvSRzOTS7-FhYdPbXN4kUEll5eJl38DmSOOGnbK-oTBvbSafQOUXIp5b412Rn-hLb76Ik8ejGHZx4g0MWw2xN-cUD3CY83TJ0Dc00J_a5w1A4d-RlFgnpz-kCAV-PMgVVqXDMv-qY4o/s1600/IMG_2499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHdvSRzOTS7-FhYdPbXN4kUEll5eJl38DmSOOGnbK-oTBvbSafQOUXIp5b412Rn-hLb76Ik8ejGHZx4g0MWw2xN-cUD3CY83TJ0Dc00J_a5w1A4d-RlFgnpz-kCAV-PMgVVqXDMv-qY4o/s320/IMG_2499.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Our tool to cut the round holes is called an F-hole cutter. The cutter is around a axle so we have to drill a first hole that can guide the cutter through.<br />
In doing so the angle of the arching has to be respected (we don't drill perpendicular to the ground...)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvGdzdZ_yikfgtiJTuqbM3D9L7AEggVCHaY19RPxdVATgGDBwRHFfR10Ja46uRj4l4qNS4QrxTbQKSPIeziqz5vv2p67-PSrSvpDyReXnKMCGzPfe-YuAOVArQLv5y1v_dKuWZWYJdR4/s1600/IMG_2500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvGdzdZ_yikfgtiJTuqbM3D9L7AEggVCHaY19RPxdVATgGDBwRHFfR10Ja46uRj4l4qNS4QrxTbQKSPIeziqz5vv2p67-PSrSvpDyReXnKMCGzPfe-YuAOVArQLv5y1v_dKuWZWYJdR4/s320/IMG_2500.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The rest of the sound hole is cut with a fret saw. The one we use for cellos is a modified one made from two fret saws.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCRa8Vyj-MJ0mIjJgDF97O8UfyllEF8f-IOMKx1Pw6XriTuHTeSarIxDaKoOu0-1Nik3WvO6gdRe7IEAvbpkGPISfhat7dyca17IC612eGpLpLyYPWmuGi8kVR3qnvd6U3PQU14mFd3kY/s1600/IMG_2501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCRa8Vyj-MJ0mIjJgDF97O8UfyllEF8f-IOMKx1Pw6XriTuHTeSarIxDaKoOu0-1Nik3WvO6gdRe7IEAvbpkGPISfhat7dyca17IC612eGpLpLyYPWmuGi8kVR3qnvd6U3PQU14mFd3kY/s320/IMG_2501.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>To finish the F-hole we use razor sharp knives and it take a long time and a lot of concentration.<br />
That way way only we can assure ourselves that elegance and harmony is respected between the two.Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-40965072078285280252012-03-28T22:55:00.001-07:002012-03-28T22:56:03.427-07:00Hollowing - part 2<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVmU6WjdGqJ62xZ9tjUmtkHCreL6VKkIjQ12t0LJvaMtrzLyZJewoC1rvbhYyjKO90PH7-x-F43p06QDo6ebp_bOl-dqQOSKO5_U5cIj5G5B1vQmo4R1xlKYTG_6LbjMLsJ-a_7CLbh3U/s1600/IMG_2473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVmU6WjdGqJ62xZ9tjUmtkHCreL6VKkIjQ12t0LJvaMtrzLyZJewoC1rvbhYyjKO90PH7-x-F43p06QDo6ebp_bOl-dqQOSKO5_U5cIj5G5B1vQmo4R1xlKYTG_6LbjMLsJ-a_7CLbh3U/s320/IMG_2473.JPG" width="320" /></a> The inside of the plates too, like the outside has to be smooth.<br />
So we use again our Thumb planes and scrappers.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_E77fbAbAJ-8IcvPJmrQX0TBYGQn0_bbUdsh5OTg6VXBRK4nVx-6rTR9aJ-cmqSSC_zTnNYu7zsetg1bFFHpjYuoIijyM34bttkn-PFzEtgxxVsFuR96ccocpHi2JuDi4N_eV8yvIW8/s1600/IMG_2466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_E77fbAbAJ-8IcvPJmrQX0TBYGQn0_bbUdsh5OTg6VXBRK4nVx-6rTR9aJ-cmqSSC_zTnNYu7zsetg1bFFHpjYuoIijyM34bttkn-PFzEtgxxVsFuR96ccocpHi2JuDi4N_eV8yvIW8/s320/IMG_2466.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-58719243732917434002012-03-28T22:51:00.000-07:002012-03-28T22:51:02.214-07:00Hollowing the plates - part 1<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL1u-UjpyFl-nVrW9b2XOsRxkFHYcN5yqPhpvjS89VxMzycbjryGlSmtyQn7n_SKTBVasfaaJBePtv47RjHmLewGZGJzreJ_QLJbPcPju-fYyuZjD5pSqr0rq4Kf53vfZbs3mgBcOEF-Q/s1600/IMG_2470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL1u-UjpyFl-nVrW9b2XOsRxkFHYcN5yqPhpvjS89VxMzycbjryGlSmtyQn7n_SKTBVasfaaJBePtv47RjHmLewGZGJzreJ_QLJbPcPju-fYyuZjD5pSqr0rq4Kf53vfZbs3mgBcOEF-Q/s320/IMG_2470.JPG" width="320" /></a>Once the archings are perfectly finished on both plates, we can start the hollowing.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXi9wXMDY79icu3t9R8PT5cEnCoTV83DwuUJUfqVeJ99guWk9nGn7gcj1-mJnrhOpVOOpDl2pJadOYwIDKV_fz4RahlNpaWu8D0Pb9jYjHJrWknAHE-bkNutkECs9ItW8efNdVNtN4pV0/s1600/IMG_2467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXi9wXMDY79icu3t9R8PT5cEnCoTV83DwuUJUfqVeJ99guWk9nGn7gcj1-mJnrhOpVOOpDl2pJadOYwIDKV_fz4RahlNpaWu8D0Pb9jYjHJrWknAHE-bkNutkECs9ItW8efNdVNtN4pV0/s320/IMG_2467.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div>We use gouges to hollow and a measuring tool called a thicknessing calliper that tells us the exact thickness of the plate at a particular point - hence the fact that we cannot re-work the top of the plates afterwards. We follow very precise measurements for thicknessing that we have refined with our experience from existing standard measurements.Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-78695918736864373802012-03-26T12:19:00.000-07:002012-03-26T12:19:32.996-07:00back purfling knot<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjDPILk9uv4bEi6RnW0PF5t_ezN0luKSj4hS8wGqkH6tImZRECuJfhsuBHbw61xOVYXi49hItTMp0HQrtTRt3Z9giskibC4LEWX9HNLR4kGqy4nwkMwEPLLcObhQmd5OSDnTVRZy-AyuM/s1600/IMG_2461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjDPILk9uv4bEi6RnW0PF5t_ezN0luKSj4hS8wGqkH6tImZRECuJfhsuBHbw61xOVYXi49hItTMp0HQrtTRt3Z9giskibC4LEWX9HNLR4kGqy4nwkMwEPLLcObhQmd5OSDnTVRZy-AyuM/s320/IMG_2461.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a>This is one of my trade mark. Although (of course !) I didn't come up with such ideas, it is no longer common to see the back purfling tying into a pattern.<br />
I did not do that on my first cello but decided to do it on all the subsequent cellos. I use a new pattern for each cello and I believe that for the longevity of the instrument, taking the purfling away from the heel [of the neck] that is a weaker part of the instrument can be a good precaution. Or maybe that's just my excuse.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzc2fF2W7sEl7kd7c3VseOH0NF1rH3zV6XPwrELGLirPDhnIBxRofSpkc95NzPbwCsQIrhw7YEVdmO9ss0qJnFDc041akLgiZfkDKWduDYqDIn4M9qcIAx4pGZk3-6_8mqEcyWVjpCptE/s1600/IMG_2464.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzc2fF2W7sEl7kd7c3VseOH0NF1rH3zV6XPwrELGLirPDhnIBxRofSpkc95NzPbwCsQIrhw7YEVdmO9ss0qJnFDc041akLgiZfkDKWduDYqDIn4M9qcIAx4pGZk3-6_8mqEcyWVjpCptE/s320/IMG_2464.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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For Victoria's cello I kept the design simple.<br />
The process is otherwise the same as the rest of the purfling but it has to be executed on the finished arching.Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-41276408850719677572012-03-26T12:03:00.000-07:002012-03-26T12:03:12.452-07:00finishing the archings<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrS3gXTnk3WX8CIb9yUq-Qkz9NxHdzmZ-JQiB3oNMs_MmzqqVGJCAtEQcY2DJ18kYasu0aZzz73Pra8Vc9Z5wgO7UZY5c8v2CuTY8jvqXV1-MiVN9L_swxAyaa5cu98XcWGyoOCdnYgHI/s1600/IMG_2422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrS3gXTnk3WX8CIb9yUq-Qkz9NxHdzmZ-JQiB3oNMs_MmzqqVGJCAtEQcY2DJ18kYasu0aZzz73Pra8Vc9Z5wgO7UZY5c8v2CuTY8jvqXV1-MiVN9L_swxAyaa5cu98XcWGyoOCdnYgHI/s320/IMG_2422.JPG" width="320" /></a>Once the purfling is in place and the fluting is finished - that is the narrow hollow running along the outline and featuring the purfling in its deepest point - we can go back to the arching and make all the shapes flow together.<br />
Gouges are used first and then little planes that we call Thumb Planes. These are often fascinating because of their size.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib0gF1X_k9PvdJQl53D6o4Rjdox4Zgin3AK2jKnBkhQvOeTdxicGyvuy9L_1GVJcfPnwpIjij_Z6rOOsp-YHQD7rrRTDBLCeCYvWG4AO4VzMYw6vLIV6qWVaYA07WPDHWuNqh_h0HD5Io/s1600/IMG_2460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib0gF1X_k9PvdJQl53D6o4Rjdox4Zgin3AK2jKnBkhQvOeTdxicGyvuy9L_1GVJcfPnwpIjij_Z6rOOsp-YHQD7rrRTDBLCeCYvWG4AO4VzMYw6vLIV6qWVaYA07WPDHWuNqh_h0HD5Io/s320/IMG_2460.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The scrappers will smooth the surface to a satin finish and a localized use will smooth out the small bumps, flats and hollows that can disturb the elegance of the arching.Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-75602206103368399482012-03-25T13:23:00.002-07:002012-03-25T13:27:54.217-07:00Purfling - part 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOeGwqJn4lHmlwfFcxkexMgKRyggj8H8WOf56yQpktKljgnEHOT921ZU8xQLqSlMpLqaZLH3ZoYO08Lj2gc4CmpLL8GHF3oibsQmr3kQh4EORhPoguT-J64BQgovb71rxfRuH8YOu0wk/s1600/IMG_2408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOeGwqJn4lHmlwfFcxkexMgKRyggj8H8WOf56yQpktKljgnEHOT921ZU8xQLqSlMpLqaZLH3ZoYO08Lj2gc4CmpLL8GHF3oibsQmr3kQh4EORhPoguT-J64BQgovb71rxfRuH8YOu0wk/s320/IMG_2408.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYJbHgwpd-Vzk6jqW_8ZmnX8Ur4h2zNaiMvbYt2OcIgQgDN9fgTYjM1Y45r6CVh2_5bBdAdD4dJutoCRTzoCoI78-jlYDYy2IabAYFh-HyIez693rk4U6UUxt1xkmf4DA2ktzFfavhGcA/s1600/IMG_2415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYJbHgwpd-Vzk6jqW_8ZmnX8Ur4h2zNaiMvbYt2OcIgQgDN9fgTYjM1Y45r6CVh2_5bBdAdD4dJutoCRTzoCoI78-jlYDYy2IabAYFh-HyIez693rk4U6UUxt1xkmf4DA2ktzFfavhGcA/s320/IMG_2415.JPG" width="240" /></a></div> The bending iron is used at a low temperature for bending the purfling and make sure it doesn't break.<br />
I use a very sharp knife to get the mitres to joint in an harmonious flow. The outside of each corner is always the one which take over the inside one to assure an optical harmony. Each half of the mitre as its blacks and white cut in a way that flaters the whole mitre and ultimately the corner itself.<br />
<br />
The gluing process is stressful because it feels like each part of the purfling should be glued all in the same time, but the glue jellify in seconds and when it does, it loses its gluing properties.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje85QFL2TC3MoQNGi3GbEGtFyKdsF4BrsJyZWxsGuxedp8n_wQ7pe767bBeKuoRh8fv9O1rRW90XB0M1lO_hCdfldjovBHQzjqeXGeOd7B22vaB-zip6nj_3KlOpjEstM23reUuB5-BFE/s1600/IMG_2416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje85QFL2TC3MoQNGi3GbEGtFyKdsF4BrsJyZWxsGuxedp8n_wQ7pe767bBeKuoRh8fv9O1rRW90XB0M1lO_hCdfldjovBHQzjqeXGeOd7B22vaB-zip6nj_3KlOpjEstM23reUuB5-BFE/s320/IMG_2416.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>On this picture of the back, we can see the finish mitre once the purfling has been fitted, glued and cleaned up.Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-85213884908766536082012-03-25T13:03:00.001-07:002012-03-25T13:06:45.898-07:00Purfling - part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBiHuK_hv5Z_l-hi11qLb6pbrixXtMguK62ljxBIc9c8VaZboOjnFmb-jBF2YPRUB4l0z1MKxffovqjcX2l-lYPZsk2X27QY6_-3svsDyr5q6t5TW5i3t5ZyJyFrE2RqVc_LEDCwfsaFQ/s1600/IMG_2410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBiHuK_hv5Z_l-hi11qLb6pbrixXtMguK62ljxBIc9c8VaZboOjnFmb-jBF2YPRUB4l0z1MKxffovqjcX2l-lYPZsk2X27QY6_-3svsDyr5q6t5TW5i3t5ZyJyFrE2RqVc_LEDCwfsaFQ/s320/IMG_2410.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> A very sharp knife, a lot of care and patience are all what we need to cut the purfling channel once it's been marked, making sure that it is not too deep as to not make the edge even more fragile rather than stronger (which is the purpose)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBpOIrGn62n7EUs2a4oR4YV49o_YhYROpJT0uKwlbX5yObadEzm04Cjy4A3k9bnrddFdz6ePmc6ZPyeIjz4kIlrBFGbPjs-jkrkkFje8ahgCEzDI5nEuhPPjuwy6dMBt8lgd9chyh5wvw/s1600/IMG_2411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBpOIrGn62n7EUs2a4oR4YV49o_YhYROpJT0uKwlbX5yObadEzm04Cjy4A3k9bnrddFdz6ePmc6ZPyeIjz4kIlrBFGbPjs-jkrkkFje8ahgCEzDI5nEuhPPjuwy6dMBt8lgd9chyh5wvw/s320/IMG_2411.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>My purfling "pick" was designed by myself for my own technique when I was a student. I never found the traditional pick being very practical to me, so I altered a knife into my very own purfling knife.<br />
A levering motion allows me much more control than a pushing motion that is the principle of the pick.Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-18274711013316160372012-03-25T12:55:00.001-07:002012-03-25T13:08:00.700-07:00Purfling - first part<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTv-m0-huesIqPy7qPUjQjd69Ybxx_cl4wfMgvYOYB7JgSQIlNRmDcQXL7N8g8x2ig7PMeleLukxDFvvR-rwhHwUbWpSkX2wxca5P72OJoUUBhRRGFXScGGEgi5PuF_fWW5X9L-ESK2-U/s1600/IMG_2405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTv-m0-huesIqPy7qPUjQjd69Ybxx_cl4wfMgvYOYB7JgSQIlNRmDcQXL7N8g8x2ig7PMeleLukxDFvvR-rwhHwUbWpSkX2wxca5P72OJoUUBhRRGFXScGGEgi5PuF_fWW5X9L-ESK2-U/s320/IMG_2405.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The purfling is that black and white line that runs around the instrument (which is in fact an inlay of three wood veneers)<br />
Traditionally the color might have had aesthetic purpose, but the inlay itself definitely has a higher purpose in the strength and structure of the edge - this area being very fragile at the seam (where the ribs and the plates are glued together)<br />
While some makers rely on pre-made purfling, we have been making our own.<br />
The black is often pear wood which has been stained with logwood chips (along with my kitchen walls), and the white can be poplar or willow.<br />
Once the veneers are glued together, strips of 2mm are cut and each edge carefully planed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW5f__XpmcF7AuCUCYmXPJDKCHvL1rFG3FiYiO0-c0uTW061jzkpCmyuLWK0N8a8tGlhnlfFtPlf6P8FrzE5zIiKZx3Z8zkQ6QubKsyttCuOR48QOr47x4KAxWHaGpBSegJHZ-mt1DrsI/s1600/IMG_2406.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW5f__XpmcF7AuCUCYmXPJDKCHvL1rFG3FiYiO0-c0uTW061jzkpCmyuLWK0N8a8tGlhnlfFtPlf6P8FrzE5zIiKZx3Z8zkQ6QubKsyttCuOR48QOr47x4KAxWHaGpBSegJHZ-mt1DrsI/s320/IMG_2406.JPG" width="320" /></a>The purfling marker is a tool specifically designed for the purpose of marking where the channel will be cut to a perfectly set distance from the edge (and following the outline, hence the care that has to brought to the latest)<br />
I must admit our purfling marker is particularly fancy and now quite rare.<br />
The blades are set with a bit of purfling between then and the handle rest on the outline. the screws are for setting it.<br />
However good the marker, when comes to the corners, this will have to be drawn free hand. Where the purfling meet in the corners, this is called the mitres. It usually takes me ages before I am happy with the [imagined] 8 mitres flawing in the 8 corners, each working as a whole as well as adjusting to the slightly individual shape of each corner.Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-84769074060823101152012-03-12T13:56:00.000-07:002012-03-12T13:56:49.394-07:00Finished outlines<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrpzSyuJBODRseB_hX7xrP_-pHSi9rEtmn5VKL_S8HPDVUr3RywrcHLQYujFYcyudLRSGOLhwC9zQespiRidzQBlm2Ee-bRmPYZ1sdtLhi9lYvasGwOXWBtU670d55UaLonsrB0PFByO8/s1600/IMAG0073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrpzSyuJBODRseB_hX7xrP_-pHSi9rEtmn5VKL_S8HPDVUr3RywrcHLQYujFYcyudLRSGOLhwC9zQespiRidzQBlm2Ee-bRmPYZ1sdtLhi9lYvasGwOXWBtU670d55UaLonsrB0PFByO8/s320/IMAG0073.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhETxDh34_X4xcjzZ8hZZqoRaVh945XJo_1P799sdZm_2OmCFHQMf2k4EglfdLnE4YFbZmnghaj1-xRoNLoROMdfPG6hyphenhyphenNNdRHXdzzLhr2FmHegEOblveVgusZkZ4KUkfXk298PZnrnniM/s1600/IMG_2399.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhETxDh34_X4xcjzZ8hZZqoRaVh945XJo_1P799sdZm_2OmCFHQMf2k4EglfdLnE4YFbZmnghaj1-xRoNLoROMdfPG6hyphenhyphenNNdRHXdzzLhr2FmHegEOblveVgusZkZ4KUkfXk298PZnrnniM/s320/IMG_2399.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="p1"><span class="s1">This picture shows the entire outline finished on the front.</span></div><div class="p1"><span class="s1">That plate will yet look very different with its fluting and the finished edges.</span></div>Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-40309450778448353642012-03-12T13:50:00.000-07:002012-03-12T13:50:46.468-07:00finishing the outlines<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigosh2z5tWcGN1U6A_ANAwvVb8xW8eXWhdYz8bWeTJ44YNhWej-8hYXv41wrXve6l8t-6-sPjaHg3GUJLE5cKPEHUF9FFN75RxQHee4bKQJ4ndUykId-OgwetsAyDdqu1SWq1R4o_fWu8/s1600/IMG_2397.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigosh2z5tWcGN1U6A_ANAwvVb8xW8eXWhdYz8bWeTJ44YNhWej-8hYXv41wrXve6l8t-6-sPjaHg3GUJLE5cKPEHUF9FFN75RxQHee4bKQJ4ndUykId-OgwetsAyDdqu1SWq1R4o_fWu8/s320/IMG_2397.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">When the arching are "roughed" - that usually means the higher point is brought to definitive (or almost), and the rest has been given a little bit more of an arching shape, we bring the edges to the definite set height and make sure they are accurately flat. We call this the platforms. They are a reference point from which the outline of the edge will be refined to its finished form and that has to be to right angle with the platforms so the purflings and the flutings can be flowing. From this the finished arching depends a lot too.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">I then finish the outlines.</div><div style="text-align: left;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFn02frPVxzSW2_rQf9SbfWr733lfgvo6tyM5oclubXK7FzD6Nao5QXk1kSUVHitSvms9zClM6i2cF1E8U80-FiPvnOGFtI6yvJUhwLr4A8sXm1m__jE0dXEm-mVSu6o15Pn1MbRYbRtw/s1600/IMG_2396.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFn02frPVxzSW2_rQf9SbfWr733lfgvo6tyM5oclubXK7FzD6Nao5QXk1kSUVHitSvms9zClM6i2cF1E8U80-FiPvnOGFtI6yvJUhwLr4A8sXm1m__jE0dXEm-mVSu6o15Pn1MbRYbRtw/s320/IMG_2396.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwoIM2Kl532uwg04Ls23FnHYYwz-CE1qB9kO6kp6DH-vXb_nLq675SHMa-Cu6GjeoVKPnZeAqS14sonUTJOmxwAYWk0eRebeY8Dfp2BNcf729FrsVqjTHd1Xrp0-I5oXrWH4Iue9OAZk/s1600/IMG_2395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwoIM2Kl532uwg04Ls23FnHYYwz-CE1qB9kO6kp6DH-vXb_nLq675SHMa-Cu6GjeoVKPnZeAqS14sonUTJOmxwAYWk0eRebeY8Dfp2BNcf729FrsVqjTHd1Xrp0-I5oXrWH4Iue9OAZk/s320/IMG_2395.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="240" /></a></div><div class="p1"><span class="s1">The edges have an important role in the aesthetic and in the structure. They have to be strong, but they cannot be too thick, they have to be elegant, and even though the finishing of them is the last stage before the plate is glued to the ribs, it's how we treat them during the outline making that lead to what they will look like on the finished instrument. My files will be my main tool to get my edges right and square, but in the corners and the "C"s and like using a razor sharp knife to get a crisp cut in the grain.</span></div></div>Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-52331581332746177602012-02-20T23:03:00.004-08:002012-02-28T06:03:31.750-08:00Creating the archings<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjX13IFXY4NSpJRu2Ku9HnQ9iRBB1eaOn0n6Ze223HDdWnKWAbOa8Oy1fqLKcMQlAQJsjAhMliP4YXApzdn9_F0YT15ap_1TDV8MVbFkPE1U4CAn69kaNHjSvFDkk5t2g1w6GoZCpXHJ0/s1600/IMAG0067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjX13IFXY4NSpJRu2Ku9HnQ9iRBB1eaOn0n6Ze223HDdWnKWAbOa8Oy1fqLKcMQlAQJsjAhMliP4YXApzdn9_F0YT15ap_1TDV8MVbFkPE1U4CAn69kaNHjSvFDkk5t2g1w6GoZCpXHJ0/s320/IMAG0067.jpg" width="191" /></a>I do prefer starting the rough arching before bringing the outline to a finish.<br />
In this case, Douglas did a lot of rough arching because as my bump grow, so decrease my physical strength.<br />
We don't forbid ourselves the use of machine tools in that process either as long as they are entirely controlled by hand, so the archings are still our creations.<br />
When creating an arching, a number of material is at our disposal : templates, pictures, plaster casts (plaster copies of existing instruments - usually made by masters such as Stradivari), and for sure our experience is a good guide.<br />
However I found myself that when I make an arching, my flair will be my best guide.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIPEWDOlyZQQ5lJ3cmdpw_gR1W88Pw4g-3WMSCA_LYtVi5N1cn0p0BWUk7CIH9eA7rWvzey2FbISzPmQ1BE6IZmGYxrREnA694nEn0wo8Gf-FdRy83Ww37Jdkb7z5lZCf55oLEOi_fie8/s1600/IMAG0064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIPEWDOlyZQQ5lJ3cmdpw_gR1W88Pw4g-3WMSCA_LYtVi5N1cn0p0BWUk7CIH9eA7rWvzey2FbISzPmQ1BE6IZmGYxrREnA694nEn0wo8Gf-FdRy83Ww37Jdkb7z5lZCf55oLEOi_fie8/s320/IMAG0064.jpg" width="191" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl5LE53UnGkRjmtT3jogKEWUq0W1MTdEM8uYPpXSs1EUxfXcdtq0_cOFrtzj00szrzdq5ensclcDiiD6BHbPigQjWnzbOWwC9sD2HtS-FHrZf1aUvGLhryjcar4o5TABdBU9uBJz1MjuQ/s1600/IMAG0072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl5LE53UnGkRjmtT3jogKEWUq0W1MTdEM8uYPpXSs1EUxfXcdtq0_cOFrtzj00szrzdq5ensclcDiiD6BHbPigQjWnzbOWwC9sD2HtS-FHrZf1aUvGLhryjcar4o5TABdBU9uBJz1MjuQ/s320/IMAG0072.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-47460708414244315712012-02-20T12:53:00.001-08:002012-02-20T22:51:05.550-08:00Cutting out outlines.Placing carefully the rib structure on each jointed plate, we first mark around it with a scriber because that will be one of the only references to relocate the plates on the ribs perfectly at the same place. This is crucial for the instrument. We also drill two tiny holes for each plate into the top and bottom blocks and we use pins (called locating pins) to also enable us to accurately relocate the plates on the ribs. Much later on, when we are finished with the pins, the holes will be bushed. Such tiny holes can be seen on most classical instruments.<br />
After that we use a special tool (a washer actually :-) to draw the outline at a set distance from the ribs.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGA0D_DAQ8TAU2iST1UHtlicq9Kh6YD1e9bdbxwQHrBTNUYzr5WE89s-7XlJxSEbhTtYAhTz-HzQz9KwgD01_yPUaneicC3OS4DYV-DRGqllrZSu4DOW4t7UylvdIyPibNWWftesijU70/s1600/IMAG0056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGA0D_DAQ8TAU2iST1UHtlicq9Kh6YD1e9bdbxwQHrBTNUYzr5WE89s-7XlJxSEbhTtYAhTz-HzQz9KwgD01_yPUaneicC3OS4DYV-DRGqllrZSu4DOW4t7UylvdIyPibNWWftesijU70/s320/IMAG0056.jpg" width="191" /></a>However the corners are drawn by eye and by hand. The style is mine and belongs just to me.<br />
It can take me hours to come to the point I am happy with all my corners fitting in with the rest of my outline (which is also my creation from some years back).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWL-ND9DtbMX5JC12kgn2l850rUDzouAkvEsr8equxnN1oGvnOzjItCGAXzWL4zCtJTHDoJcNjC2oe_cIwo50tiBjktS7LhMSx7LK2OMUEO75yEMaepAsaT-jrvb_nkiN2rjcjfqUaNX4/s1600/IMAG0057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWL-ND9DtbMX5JC12kgn2l850rUDzouAkvEsr8equxnN1oGvnOzjItCGAXzWL4zCtJTHDoJcNjC2oe_cIwo50tiBjktS7LhMSx7LK2OMUEO75yEMaepAsaT-jrvb_nkiN2rjcjfqUaNX4/s320/IMAG0057.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>Both plates are cut out carefully, using a band saw - of course.<br />
On this picture, you can see that a bit is missing into the bottom boot at the edge. It is not uncommon that a piece of wood is slightly to short to accommodate the whole outline. In this case a piece will be glued on and the addition will be almost invisible and totally safe. This is called a wing.<br />
In the history of Violin Making some instruments, for that reason or another (sometimes to discard a bad bit in the wood without discarding the whole piece) have been pretty heavily winged...<br />
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Both plates are cut of.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyLRjgX8Nx_4e139Q_LP4IrD9hEqxqQK0gomQxMT_tXJ0yhw92W9O7EjH2QG9CuptjcuofpoWlXscpfgBCs-bwQl-HcWPOq0QZi4I2agwyIjMYK8mkFw5-EDSuLKrhAikZv8eMQpb_EPw/s1600/IMAG0065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyLRjgX8Nx_4e139Q_LP4IrD9hEqxqQK0gomQxMT_tXJ0yhw92W9O7EjH2QG9CuptjcuofpoWlXscpfgBCs-bwQl-HcWPOq0QZi4I2agwyIjMYK8mkFw5-EDSuLKrhAikZv8eMQpb_EPw/s320/IMAG0065.jpg" width="320" /></a>The next step is to mark the edge. On this picture we can see the mark along the side that is at an exactly set distance from the underneath of the plate which is flat.<br />
The plates are now ready for most makers favorite bit : Creating the archings.Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-38793692997567108032012-02-20T07:35:00.000-08:002012-02-20T12:50:11.311-08:00LiningsThe linings are strips of wood (I use spruce, but willow or lime is good too) that run all along the ribs at the "top" and the "bottom" of them - this is the area that we call seams because that is where the plates (the belly and the back) come to be glued to the ribs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmY9pR5NmCNoxF6BQjuiAF8b2wun8COea_9vGKtwmbPhaJc125_povWYR_JAYkKc7SE1EYHiiTD40mbkliNJFUyG7tTGe51Ls7c4eA7yWSiEy7aqQFw6gGd_QThugj15rH6dtQ5wPhC9k/s1600/IMAG0051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmY9pR5NmCNoxF6BQjuiAF8b2wun8COea_9vGKtwmbPhaJc125_povWYR_JAYkKc7SE1EYHiiTD40mbkliNJFUyG7tTGe51Ls7c4eA7yWSiEy7aqQFw6gGd_QThugj15rH6dtQ5wPhC9k/s320/IMAG0051.jpg" width="320" /></a>In fact the linings provide extra support to the ribs (to avoid tension and distortions) and also a bigger gluing surface for the seams.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQaM-FQFjgr0Z9dbnMqfCgMa-NZ6N3VYTQt3fQAvvM8uHxhUuI8FveaxjcM0dXeMeneJI8AB4-BO7_zvpO_I6Nk9K6yGzX4bp3_rG8nXwvH06hZ2l74_Iqx6SGd74s4SacOAvmN6hHweo/s1600/IMAG0038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQaM-FQFjgr0Z9dbnMqfCgMa-NZ6N3VYTQt3fQAvvM8uHxhUuI8FveaxjcM0dXeMeneJI8AB4-BO7_zvpO_I6Nk9K6yGzX4bp3_rG8nXwvH06hZ2l74_Iqx6SGd74s4SacOAvmN6hHweo/s320/IMAG0038.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">The linings are partially set into the blocks, where with time they tend to lose their bent shape and could come unglued from the ribs (which could cause buzzes). It is not necessary to set them in at the top and bottom bouts as their natural tendency would press them closer to the ribs - if anything.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqzFwsC6kYi3T4j-W2GpfomlAuvyDZOI2zfDg2T07APdsDFAkYy35e4wwUer6LIuDPtti_-VZPyvK6wjXrjsYz-nxX-txcytsNH1aIt10uhh7qZjlnbzFkrlo35Ieov1gSUKVCimcrOyw/s1600/IMAG0050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqzFwsC6kYi3T4j-W2GpfomlAuvyDZOI2zfDg2T07APdsDFAkYy35e4wwUer6LIuDPtti_-VZPyvK6wjXrjsYz-nxX-txcytsNH1aIt10uhh7qZjlnbzFkrlo35Ieov1gSUKVCimcrOyw/s320/IMAG0050.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br />
</div>Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8638523577040819862.post-48718738532882458532012-02-19T06:26:00.000-08:002012-02-20T12:47:52.237-08:00Trimming the ribs.Once the ribs of the top and bottom bouts are glued, they need to be trimmed. We do so in such a way that the joint is inside the "C" where they are the least visible.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7V7fWM_G3ifZ8oxDUfhrrOVupZIt1IUctWRKvRLqYFz9rdR_ZAxJqcaH8D7iPeKB7XAPZajsaymPv4FCiB0WXkwFWqWDr2kUQnhauuEqro0mL9FXnGh4Jgcvq7zjZowVp_irfshQMr04/s1600/IMAG0045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7V7fWM_G3ifZ8oxDUfhrrOVupZIt1IUctWRKvRLqYFz9rdR_ZAxJqcaH8D7iPeKB7XAPZajsaymPv4FCiB0WXkwFWqWDr2kUQnhauuEqro0mL9FXnGh4Jgcvq7zjZowVp_irfshQMr04/s320/IMAG0045.jpg" width="191" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDd2GPj6M2vPanMQPrPyIVuVipeQL2FuR-WR8bUflHsog0mNtOag8hX_NzrtChBtuM2ryfw7PD26b66Yxc4IWU0xmd2y7GL202pMpz5IgQcmW8BwG0-PWg8ZtxR_p6KtsuZL0YExtGl6Y/s1600/IMAG0049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDd2GPj6M2vPanMQPrPyIVuVipeQL2FuR-WR8bUflHsog0mNtOag8hX_NzrtChBtuM2ryfw7PD26b66Yxc4IWU0xmd2y7GL202pMpz5IgQcmW8BwG0-PWg8ZtxR_p6KtsuZL0YExtGl6Y/s320/IMAG0049.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now we only need to fit and glue some linings and the rib structure will be left on the side until it comes time to glue it to the plates.</div>Marion Bennardohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03028312197340386478noreply@blogger.com0